Hannah Nili: One With the Waves

“The most interesting thing in my life is I guess that I surf. My mom put me in beach camp when I was eight. I first started surfing in the Pacific Palisades and then as I got older I started going to a camp that was designated to surfing and that was in Zuma beach. When I first get to the beach I go to the line to get my wetsuit. Once I get my wetsuit I put my stuff down for the day and get my surfboard. Touching the water for the first time in the day makes me excited to surf for the rest of the day. I paddle out to find a good wave and quickly get on my surfboard to catch the wave. I look behind me and I see the wave approaching. I paddle to keep up with the wave I stand up. When I catch the wave, it’s the best feeling in the world. It feels really freeing and I’m close to nature and it’s really cool that I was like riding on a wave that was like made by God.”